“I call them wild mountains,” announced Vadim, our mountain guide who served as special forces in the Russian military with subtle pride. Our group of 6 nodded, distracted from taking photos of the mountains. That statement was stuck in my head the entire seven days of trekking the Fa

Whistling marmots, rare butterfly species and fresh mint plants along the footpath: The Fann Mountains could not be more pristine. The mighty mountains are best explored on foot. Never before in my life have I seen the Milky Way as sharp and unobscured as we saw it during that night i