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PARAMOUNT JOURNEY

Upper Zerafshan – Exploring the Gornaya Matcha Zerafshan Valley

The Upper Zarafshan Valley, also known as the Gornya Matcha region, is a remote valley in Sughd that is dominated by the Zarafshan Mountain Range that runs through northwestern Tajikistan and on to Uzbekistan. It is easily one of the most picturesque regions in Tajikistan, characterized by high-altitude deserts, meandering rivers, authentic alpine villages, rolling potato fields, and dramatic thousand-meter-high glaciers.

Zarafshon means ‘full of gold’ in Persian. Once located along the Great Silk Road, the Gornya Matcha region was famous for its gold-panning opportunities that could be found in the upper reaches of the Zarafshan River. Like the western side of the valley, the eastern side also boasts sacred mausoleums and historic ruins worth exploring, but it is the thousand-meter-high peaks and rushing river that are the real attractions here.

The Upper Zarafshan Valley is a popular destination for trekking, hiking, rock climbing, mountain biking, kayaking, and mountaineering. You can trek and hike just about anywhere in the valley, through patchworks of farmland, along mountain roads, and through scenic alpine villages. There are day hikes and several day treks available; it just depends what you are looking for and your fitness levels. You can trek up the snaking Obburdon pass or take the trail over the Farzod pass from Darg all the way into the Yagnob Valley.

Stretching over 24 kilometers, the Zarafshan Glacier is one of the longest glaciers in Central Asia, and one of the most popular trekking destinations in the Gornya Matcha region. Far from civilization, the trek is incredibly peaceful and ideal for thrill-seekers. With its towering 5,000 meter peaks, the glacier itself is one of the best spots in Tajikistan for hiking, rock climbing, mountain biking, and mountaineering. It is also a good spot for wildlife watching – keep an eye out for the occasional bear, wolf, or snow leopard while you climb.

If you are planning to trek around the Zarafshan Glacier, be aware that there is an army checkpoint located just past Dehisar. You will need to get permission from the local border guards to enter the area, but this can be easily arranged by your Paramount Journeys guide. Experienced trekkers can continue to Jirgatol in the Rasht Valley, and onwards to Tavildara if they so choose.

While trekking is the main highlight, the activities in the Upper Zarafshan Valley are not just land-based. There are also exciting kayaking opportunities to be found around the Zerafshan River. Just before you get to Dehisar, the river plunges through a narrow gorge where you can kayak all the way along the river to the ancient settlement and modern-day town of Panjakent. However, due to the location and the conditions of the water, it is only recommended for experienced kayakers.

If you are an avid mountain biker, the Veshab Pass within the valley is beautiful but challenging. The roads that cross the Turkestan range are a bit more sedate and are open from May to November each year, weather dependent. For a real test, the Obburdon pass is a high-altitude climb and much more adrenaline-inducing for experienced cyclists.

Adventure activities aside, the villages of the Gornaya Matcha region are well worth exploring. They are far more remote than the popular Yagnob Valley and therefore get much fewer visitors. This is all part of their charm.

Oburdon is one of the most historic villages in the Upper Zarafshan Valley, surrounded by a medieval fortress and fragrant fruit orchards. It is the site of many infamous battles from history, such as the battle between the Basmachi fighters and the Red Army, and the locals will be happy to tell the tales of the region’s tumultuous past.

The village of Matcha is the administrative hub of the Upper Zarafshan Valley. It is also the biggest village in the Gornaya Matcha region. Built by the Soviets, it is one of the only villages that were not built like a traditional mountain village.

Other alpine villages worth a visit include Langar and Samjon. The people who lived in this area of the valley were forcibly relocated to work on the cotton fields near the Uzbek border post in the 1950s and it took a decade before they could return to their communities. Today, the villages have returned to their remote and basic beauty and the local’s hospitality, despite their poverty, is second-to-none.

The best way to explore the Upper Zarafshan Valley, or the Gornya Matcha region, is with a trekking adventure. Paramount Journeys offers a wealth of trekking and mountaineering trips and these can be combined with any number of treks in Tajikistan, including the spectacular Yagnob Valley.